LOVE this table Ashlee @ Topsy Turvy created using vintage windows!
LOVE this table Ashlee @ Topsy Turvy created using vintage windows!



C. With the wrong sides facing out, pin the exterior A pieces together. Stitch ½” seams along the sides and bottom.

D. Match the side seam line with the bottom seam line at one of the corners. Pin in place and stitch a ½” seam. Repeat on the other corner.
E. Trim the seam allowances at the corners about half way to reduce bulk. Turn the bag exterior right side out and set aside for now.
Step 4: The Lining
A. Align the 2 pocket B pieces with the wrong sides facing out and pin. Stitch 1/2” seams along the four sides, leaving a 2” opening (approximate) on one side for turning.

B. Clip the corners to reduce bulk. Turn the pocket right side out and press. Stitch a ¼” seam along 1 long edge. This will be the top of your pocket.

C. Pin the pocket to the right side of one of the lining A pieces. Place it 7” down from the top edge and centered between the sides. Remember that the stitched edge is the top of the pocket. Stitch 1/8” seams along the sides and bottom (you will close the opening along the way).

D. Following the manufacturer’s directions, attach ½ of the magnetic snap to the lining piece A. Place it 1.25” down from the top edge and centered between the sides. TIP: For added reinforcement, place a square of fabric that is slightly larger than the snap on the back of the snap on the wrong side of the fabric. I like to use canvas or felt. Attach the other half of the snap to the other lining piece A.

E. Align the lining A pieces with the WRONG sides facing OUT. Pin in place. Stitch ½” seams along the sides and bottom. Leave a 5” (approximate) opening on 1 side for turning.

F. Create the bottom corners the same way you made the exterior bag corners (see step 3-D).
Step 5: Finishing
A. Place the exterior bag inside the lining (with the lining inside out and the exterior right side out). Pin around the top edge. Stitch a ½” seam.

B. Reach through the opening in the lining and pull the exterior of the bag through. The lining will now be right side out. Slip the plastic canvas through the opening and place it in the bottom of the bag.
C. Fold the raw edges of the opening in the lining in and pin. Stitch a ¼” seam.

D. Push the lining into the bag exerior. Topstitch around the opening.


Do you ever stumble upon a blog and say "Why haven't I seen this amazing blog before?"! That's how I felt when I stumbled upon Under the Table and Dreaming recently.
Grab your Mod Podge, your favorite scrapbook paper, and check out this necklace pendant tutorial by The Handy Hausfrau!
{via Adventures in Crafting}
Disney {Ruffles and Stuff} shares this super duper cute dress tutorial over at Tea Rose Home, HERE.
First thing is gather your supplies.
If you notice in the pic I tried the plastic molds, these do no release the Envirotex so use the silicone only. I chose to do hearts with a mixture of color sprinkles and stars with red, white, and blue sprinkles in light of Memorial Day and July 4th coming up.
Start by mixing your Envirotex Lite according to the packages directions.
Next just pour your mixture into your molds and then sprinkle your candy into the molds with the mixture.
Now is the waiting process, you'll need to let it set for 72 hours so that it hardens. At that point, you're just going to pop them right out of the molds. File the edges to be flat and smooth if needed.
Take your bail and super glue it to the back of each candy sprinkle charm.
Simply string your necklace through the bail and stick a fork in you because you're done! Real easy uh! I used a ball chain for the star and colored ribbon necklace for the heart.

Lemon Tree Creations revamps this lamp by using this fun paint color and {get this}...raffia!
Megan from the Brassy Apple shows you how she made this amazing headboard, HERE.
I Can Make That shares this fabulous vintage fruit bowl (above) tutorial, HERE.
1/4 yd main fabric
1/4 yd co-ordinating fabric for reverse side of hat
optional: 1/2 yd fusible interfacing if your fabric is lightweight or you want extra stiffness in your hat (1/4 yd needed if interfacing only one side of hat)
Heat n Bond scraps
Pattern pieces - ensure that your printer is not set to scale the document larger or smaller before you print :).
Click here to download the pattern pieces for the hat.
Directions:
Note: All seam allowances are 1/2".
1. Cut out fabrics and interfacing (optional) as marked on pattern pieces. When cutting interfacing, cut pieces 1/2" smaller on all sides of pattern pieces.
2. If using interfacing, iron to wrong side of corresponding fabric pieces. For the hat pictured, I chose to interface only one side of the reversible hat (which means I only cut 2 of each piece out of interfacing instead of 4 as marked on the pattern pieces).
5. Clip top of hat band every 3/4". Make sure that your cuts are less than 1/2" long.
6. Right sides together, pin top edge of band to main fabric crown piece, matching raw edges. To mark the crown piece into quarters before pinning, I like to "finger press" it by folding it in half and then in half again and giving it a good pinch. It saves time and my home-ec teacher in high school even taught me it so it's totally legit :).
7. Stitch pinned band to crown, stretching the clipped edge to match the curved crown edge as you go. Press seam toward center of crown and turn hat right side out.
8. Right sides together, pin and stitch brim pieces of main fabric together at sides, matching raw edges. Press seams open.
9. Clip top edge of brim every 1". Make sure that your cuts are less than 1/2" long.
9. Right sides together, pin and stitch top of brim to bottom of band, matching raw edges. Press seam open.
10. Assemble reverse side of hat by repeating steps 3-9 with co-ordinating fabric.
11. Right sides together, pin two sides of hat together at bottom rim, matching side seams and raw edges. Stitch pieces together at pinned edge, leaving a 4" gap for turning the hat right side out.
12. Turn hat right side out, placing one side of hat inside the other. Press bottom edge of brim flat, pressing raw edge of opening under 1/2". Topstitch near bottom pressed edge around entire brim and again 1/4" from edge. If you like, you can continue topstitching parallel rows 1/4" apart to the top of the brim.